The Thoughtful Craft of Character Costume Design
Every detail in a television show serves a purpose, from dialogue to set design, to costuming. In the case of 'Presumed Innocent,' the upcoming Apple TV+ series, this careful consideration is evident in the attire worn by its characters. Costume designer Johanna Argan has meticulously crafted wardrobes that not only fit the characters aesthetically but also deepen our understanding of who they are. Particularly noteworthy is the wardrobe for the protagonist Rusty, played by Jake Gyllenhaal, which is heavily inspired by the timeless style of classic Hollywood star Paul Newman.
The Multifaceted Rusty
Jake Gyllenhaal's character, Rusty, is a man of many roles: a diligent prosecutor, a loving father, and a conflicted lover. To reflect these various facets of his personality, Argan looked to one of Hollywood's most iconic figures, Paul Newman. Newman's style exuded a mix of simplicity and elegance, elements that Argan believed were essential in bringing Rusty's character to life.
Rusty's wardrobe prominently features a Giorgio Armani three-piece suit, which has been selected for its combination of sophistication and subtlety. This choice hints at Rusty's professional demeanor and standing in society. The crisp lines and classic cut of the suit convey a sense of authority and command, befitting someone in Rusty's position. Complementing the suit, custom-made shirts from Anto ensure that the fit is impeccable, highlighting Rusty's polished exterior.
Everyday Yet Refined
A balance had to be struck between Rusty's professional attire and his off-duty look. Argan ensured that when Rusty was out of the courtroom, his attire softened to reflect his more personal side. Simple, understated casual attire made its way into Rusty's wardrobe, including well-fitted jeans, casual slacks, and plain shirts. These pieces were carefully selected to show a more relaxed but still meticulous side of Rusty.
The everyday wardrobe speaks to his role as a father and lover, where he is more approachable and accessible. This shift in style is subtle but crucial in showcasing the different aspects of Rusty’s life. It’s a testament to how clothing can influence our perception of a character and provide insight into their personal journey.
The Women of Presumed Innocent
While much attention is placed on Rusty, it is equally important to acknowledge the wardrobe selections for the women in his life. Barbara, Rusty's wife and an art seller, and Carolyn, his mistress, are dressed to reflect their distinct personalities and roles within the story.
Barbara’s wardrobe needed to communicate sophistication and a sense of high society, consistent with her profession and status. Her outfits include tailored dresses, elegant blouses, and exquisite accessories. Each piece was chosen to emphasize her refined taste and the complexity of her character. Barbara's elegance is apparent but not too ostentatious, embodying a woman who is both influential and understated.
On the other hand, Carolyn’s style is more varied, revealing her as a character with a distinct sense of self. She might wear bold colors and more eclectic designs, distinguishing her from Barbara and showing her individuality. Carolyn's wardrobe aims to present a stark contrast to Barbara, underscoring the varied dynamics Rusty navigates in his personal life.
Subtlety in Costume Design
One of the paramount goals in costuming is to ensure that the clothing complements the narrative without overshadowing it. Argan's work in 'Presumed Innocent' achieves this balance masterfully. Through subtle cues and deliberate choices, the clothing informs the audience about the characters without becoming intrusive.
The importance of wardrobe in film and television often goes unappreciated by the casual viewer, but it’s an integral part of storytelling. The costumes in 'Presumed Innocent' are not just about fashion; they are about defining the characters and their journeys. By drawing inspiration from classic styles and adapting them to the modern setting, Argan has crafted wardrobes that resonate with viewers on multiple levels.
Why Wardrobe Matters
Wardrobe is a powerful tool in the visual storytelling arsenal. It conveys time periods, social status, moods, and transformations. In legal dramas like 'Presumed Innocent,' where character development is key, the role of costuming becomes even more vital. The audience needs to believe in Rusty’s professionalism, empathize with his struggles, and understand the complexity of his relationships.
In conclusion, the careful costuming choices by Johanna Argan in 'Presumed Innocent' serve as a reminder of the importance of every visual detail in crafting a compelling narrative. Through inspired choices and meticulous attention to detail, the clothing in the series aids in telling a richer, more nuanced story. As viewers, we are invited to look beyond the surface and see the layers that clothing adds to character development, offering a deeper emotional connection to the story and its people.
